ShenandoahValleyChurchmans

Inside front cover:
Mr. Faddie's? District 1829
Z? Johnston $13.97
Wm Patterson 13.97
John Stuart pd 7.36
L. McFadden pd 5.90
Wm Kennedy 6.51
A. Draper? 5.17
A. Lorshman? 5.32
Ruth Finley pd 9.81
John Kales? 3.70
R.Gibbs X pd 3.36
Jacob Hall pd 4.48
David Stram? 5.89
Wm Armstrong 5.89

Clothes etc taken

4 shirts
3 Hypocrits
2 collars
4 pr stockings
3 waiscoats
3 pr of pantaloons
2 pr drawers
1 white cravat: 1 ditto stripes
1 spotted, 1 square spotted
1 black silk
1 pair of mittens. 1 pair gloves
2 coats. & 1 big coat. 1 umbrella
2 pocket handkerchiefs
1 testament & Village Hymn book
1 razor

1831
Dec. 26 Sent by Robeson Irine to Lindsey Poage. Five dollars on the Bank of Cincinati to be returned. He is to have the money at mothers, $5,00

1831 October 24th Brownsburg, VA, Rockbridge Co.
Left home for the state of Kentucky, in good health, & all well at home: by the blefsing of God. Came with the family & a good many friends to Church & then bid them adieu for how long I know not. Nothing remarkable today, Fed our horses at the Forge. Paid 13 1/2, & came to Mr. Doyles. Panther Gap, say 20 miles from home.
25th Started pretty early: right cool, but a dry and clear day. Came by the Blowing Cave, crofsed the Cow Pasture river on a bridge at Huggarts- ?? at Stuarts. Came on to Warm Springs, & dined with Mr. Francisco.
Left there about 3 o clock. Came to the Hot Springs. Viewed the Bath House, which was very well furnished with small rooms and cots to sweat those who visit the Springs, & take in the spring. Then the water was somewhat more than blood heat, I thought, by putting in my hand and trying it. Came on to Mr. Pattons for the night about 6 miles farther, a very fine place. Rode today 30 miles —
26th Started rather before daylight. Crofsed Jacksons River about 3 1/2 miles from Pattons near to Parishes tavern, pafsed Lanahans & come on to Callahans. 15 miles to breakfast. This place is on the turnpike 5 miles from Covington. Traveled on the turnpike, a fine road. Crofsed the Alleghany Mountain about 4 or 5 miles from Callahans, pafsed another tavern (Dicksons) one mile from the White Sulphur Springs which place is 15 miles from Callahans and 9 miles from Lewisburg. A most delightful place and a fashionable resort for people of pleasure & for invalids, it has pretty much the appearance of a rural village and its situation very healthy. We did not stop to view it— came on to McLaughlins at Greenbriar bridge. 38 miles today. This is a fine house— a pleasant, conversable landlord, & is 3 miles from Lewisburg. Here is the finest covered bridge I ever saw. It is about 400 feet long with 2 tracks painted, & cost about 18 or 19 thousand dollars.
27th: Started rather before light, right cool, and very high wind. Came on to Lewisburg about 3 miles from the river. This is a right pretty village. The houses are very much scattered, though some fine buildings are interspersed here and there. There is a court house of stone. 3 or 4 taverns and 6 or 7 stores I suppose— The morning turned rather stormy and commenced raining it seemed until we reached the toll gate (Mr. Rifes) 101/2 miles further here we breakfasted, & after the rain ceased a little, we pursued our journey, pafsing a tavern stand every 3 or 4 miles or so, crofsed the Little and Big S? Mountain about 21 or 22 miles from Lewisburg, also the Meadows of Greenbrier, or swamps as they appeared to be, before they are cleared. It rained pretty near all day. Towards evening it began to sleet, & about sunset it commenced snowing a little, very cold and disagreeable. We came to Mr. Dean for the night. 32 miles from Lewisburg making 35 mile today. There has been scarcely anything but mountains today.
28th Started early, very cold and heavy frost, having cleared off in the night the ground was frozen. Came on to Col. Oldersons, 11 miles for breakfast— thence to where the road strikes New River. It is about 12 miles. Still a very mountainous country. Stopped to take a view of the celebrated cliff which, as I was informed, was 1004 feet above low water in the river. This I think exagerated. It did not appear to be more than 3 or 400 feet. It is certainly a very high cliff and alarming to look down it. The river appears to run directly under it. However you are not able to throw a stone into it which at this place is tremendously rapid confined to a very narrow channel by huge mafses of rocks. From this place to Gauley Bridge about 7 miles are tremendous cliffs of rocks and rough, winding, & pretty high mountains. Over the Gauley is a very neat and strong bridge, over 100 yards long but not covered. Below this the stream takes the name of Kenhanny?. About 2 miles below the mouth of Gauley are the great falls which is no more than the river falling, like steps about 20 feet in about 75 or 100 yards, which makes a great noise. It causes a considerable fog—below this the river has no great rapids, but all down to the Salt Licks the current is very rapid, not navigable except for canoes. Came on for the night to Mr. Huddlesons, 3 miles below the falls. Here begins narrow bottom and good corn, say about 50 bushels to the acre.
29th Last night met with the Kenhanny delegation to internal improvement convention to be held at Lewisburg on the 31st consisting of Judge Summers, George Summers, Lawyer Ben Smith & Craichton? Walker, and Mr. McFarland merchant, very smart, intelligent, well informed, and lively man— Started something later than usual, came to Mrs. Stocktons for breakfast, 13 miles, a very fine looking house and land, accommodations not very good— the country a little more open and some bottom land, but winding ridges of mountains on each side of the river—At breakfast met with Mr. Womack? Delegate from Logan to Lewisburg and elected to the State Senate. Also Gen. Smith of the Salt Licks—pafsed by the salt works which are strung along both sides of the river for 10 or 12 miles. I did not count them, but was told they make about 1100000 bushels of salt in a year. There were I think not less than 150 flat boats along in the river waiting or ready to start with loads of salt—There are some fine bottoms here, rich land, and the best corn I have seen anywhere. I was told that one man will have 10,000 bushels this season—Reached Charleston this night 33 miles today, put our horses at the tavern, & loged [sic} ourselves at Mr. Calhouns, himself absent, holding a sacrament at the Salt Licks 6 miles off.
30th Sunday. Staid in Charleston today, a very wet day. Went to Sunday School in the morning and to preaching at 11 o'clock & again at night, to hear Mr. Balentine just licensed in Ohio. This town is beautifully situated on the north bank of the Kenhaney just above the mouth of Elk river, which is a considerable stream. Charleston is the head of steam navigation, which is only done in the winter and spring — There is a splendid Presbyterian Church here with an organ. And Methodist Church and Court House, and several taverns and stores. Population I don't know.
31st Very foggy along the river, crofsed the river in a houseboat, or flat drawn by 2 blind horses, who walk on a horizontal wheel which turns some machinery, which also turns two flutter wheels, one on each (of) the boats by means of which wheels the boat is propelled forward— Came to the mouth of the Coal river to breakfast 12 miles. Mr. Liskess ? is the name of the man where we breakfast. This day pafsed three droves of hogs, say 1500, & two droves of horses, about 30 head—At the mouth of Coal is a large steam mill running 3 pair of stones. Most of the wheat is brought from Ohio. This is still in Kenhaney County— Below this 1 mile the road leaves the river, and turns pretty near west through what is called L {T] ay's Valley . Came to Mud River for the night, 20 miles. Mr. Buces?—
Nov. 1st Came to Barboursville, county seat of Cabel county. It is situated on the north east bank of Guyandott River. It is a small place. Crofs the river & come on the turnpike to the mouth of Big Sandy river, which is the line between Virginia and Kentucky 18 miles from Barboursville. There is now a turnpike partly finished from Big Sandy to Charleston 60 miles and from there to Covington 130 is finished and to Lexington __ it is partly made 40 miles more—At the mouth of Big Sandy 3 states are in view. Ohio acrofs the Ohio river & Kentucky acrofs the Big Sandy. The Ohio River is nearly a half a mile wide at this place and is a most noble stream. Steam boats are pafsing every day up and down. Steam boats go up as far as Pittsburg + to Cincinati 150— Ferried the Big Sandy, about 80 yards wide & 10 ft water. Came on for the night to Mr Wm Poagues. On the banks of the Ohio Grunifs ? County. The turnpike terminates at the mouth of Big Sandy; This river is the line between Kentucky and Virginia— Below this the roads are very bad, cut up very much with the hogs. Have met about 11000 head—
2nd Stayed until after breakfast then went in company with Col. Hugh Poage down the river to Thom Poage's first, then to Gen. John Poage, then to Amanda Furnace, situated just on the bank of the river 6 miles from where we started. Took a look at the Furnace which is worked by a Steam Engine with 3 boilers. It is powerful and wonderful machinery to me. I cannot comprehend it well. Here I saw 2 s boats pafs, the Guyandott and Columbus which was the first I ever saw under way. The Guyandott runs from Guyan to Cincinati 105 miles about 21 or 22 hours. Saw some horses on board. Came back to Gen. Poages about a mile & staid all night. Saw a Mr. Robert Poage of Mason County there and also a pretty girl daughter of the General. Her name was Ann.
3rd Came up the river with Robert Poage to Wm Poages & back to Gen. John Poages. Staid there that night & next day. Next night we walked up to Wm Brubakers about 1 mile. Enjoyed ourselves very well both nights.
5th Came from Wm Brubakers before breakfast to Gen. Poages about noon, left there and came down to Amanda Furnace 1 mile where I took steamboat about 5 o'clock to Cincinati. Took a cabin pafsage at 3.75. Took supper soon after I got on board—went to bed about 9 o'clock but slept none. The 6th got up before daylight and found myself at Maysville about 80 miles from where I started. The boat stoped through the night several times to take in and put out freight and pafsengers. After a delightful sail of 65 miles reached Cincinati about 1 o'clock. It was a fine day. & all pafsengers on board landed at the wharf where were several other S Boats, at the end of Sycamore Street. Went to the Cincinati Hotel and put up. In the evening took a walk through part of the city, up (or north) Main Street. & along some of the crofs streets to the Dayton Canal, which comes in on the north to Base Street perhaps & it then turns at right angles and strikes east. It is only finished as far as Main Street. & has now finished one or two basins in which were several of the Canal boats. Which will take from 3 to 400 barrels of flour & are drawn by horses on a tow path at 4 miles per hour— Some of the boats are neatly finished for accommodating pafsengers. Went to a Roman Catholic Church and heard them perform on the organ and go thro their form of worship, which only appeared to me to be mockery, for I could not understand anything that was said. About half a dozen setences is all that was said besides a great many ceremonies which I did not understand. After supper went to the 2nd Presbyterian Church. A splendid building where I heard a Mr. Williams who has been preaching 14 years among the Choctaws. He preached a sermon in behalf of the Indians.
7th Took a walk nearly around the city which is I would judge about 1 miles long and about 11/2 broad. The length is along the river or east and west. The Main Street runs north from the river about the centre of the town. All the streets running in this direction cross the canal about 11/4 miles from the river. The streets crofs each other at right angles. From the river back they are called 1st, 2nd, 3rd, & etc. Some of the other principle are the Main, Sycamore, Broadway, Walnut, Race, Line & Pearl etc. —Went to see the Museum, but was disappointed. Did not see as much as I expected. Saw some animals and paintings. & Mass? Works. & Gen. Jack son in full costume, in full size, mounted on a fiery steed, etc.—Took my departure about dark in the same boat, met no accidents and landed at Maysville, Kantucky. 65 miles up the river. About daylight.
8 Took a walk through the town It is a beautiful town. It has 3 principal streets along the river east and west. About 3/4 of a mile long and contains I suppose 1500 or 2000 inhabitants. It has 2 Presbyterian churches and perhaps several others and it has 3 steam power mills, one steam paper mill etc—I had forgot to say that there are a great many steam works in Cincinati all manufacturing of any extent is carried on by steam power as there are no water falls. And no water power. There is a great deal of manufacturing done here (around Cincinati). Steam Engine Foundery, Rolling Mills, Steam Saw, and Merchant Mills, Paper Mills etc. There is an old steam merchant mill of stone here of 9 stories high on the lower side of the hill— Vast quantities of timber are floated down the river in rafts & sawed here by Steam Saw Mills— There are also a vast quantity of goods of all kinds here so far as I could judge I cant see what they do with them. Stone coal is used in all the steam works which is brought from Pittsburg 450 miles and it sells about 15 or 20 cents per bus. Great quantities of corded wood are brought down the river and down the canal. I cannot give a good account of the place. & its sources of wealth being there only one day. Spent this day in Maysville (Mason County) waiting to take the stage to Mays Lick tonight at 12 oclock. This place is situated on the left bank of the Ohio River in a small loop or bottom which is surrounded by very high and steep bluffs on the south and west. On the north west the bluffs extend to the banks of the river & on the east a small creek puts in with high and steep banks, which so limits the extension of the town that it never can be much larger. Near by all the ground that can be is built on. Part of the town is pretty thickly built with fine brick buildings, not a stone house, and very few frame.are to be seen—I am told that it is the 3rd town in size and commerce in the state. There appears to be a great deal of businefs done here. Goods are brought here in S Boats up and down. & produce is brought in from the country by wagons, & goods hauled back in return— There is a fine turnpike in progrefs from this place to Lexington on the macadamized plan, graded to a certain degree, & then filled up with stone beat up very fine, one or two feet thick. A part of it is finished, say 4 or 5 miles. & it is the best road that ever I saw. It branches near the town, one fork goes to the lower and the other to the upper end of the town.
9th Started in the Stage about 12 oclock. Traveled about 4 miles to Washington on the beto ? road which is much the best I ever was on. Washington is a right smart looking place, one street nearly 1 mile longe. After leaving the turnpike had very bad road to Mays Lick 8 miles farther. I got there about 3 oclock & went to bed—
The 10th got up early and took my saddle bags on my shoulder. I started through the fields for Gen. Robt Poages, where I arrived just as they were setting down to breakfast, distant 2 miles. Shortly after breakfast Mr. Irvine arrived from Greenup County with my horse agreeably to arrangements. Having been well and met with no inconvenience of consequence in leaving the horses—Spent the day hiring?. This evening took a walk to the Rev. Mr. Garrison, a presbyterian preacher and soninlaw to Gen. Poage. Staid there untill after supper. & returned to Gen Poages—
11th This morning was rather wet and blustering and somewhat cooler. It however cleared off after dinner. & Miss Margaret Poage of Greenup, Mr. Robert Poage, Mr. Irvine and myself rode over to a Mr. Lynns. I sat till bedtime. Saw 3 Mifs Lynns & a Mifs Kumper of Cincinati, who were very fine girls.
12th Went over before breakfast to Mr. Garrisons, got a way bill from him of the road to Hopkinsville & then bid them adieu. Came to Gen. Poages, got our breakfast, & then started— This section of country is the finest I have yet seen. It is a limestone soil, & very rich, & somewhat rolling, well adapted to the groth of hemp & corn, but rather rich for wheat. & badly watered. An hours ride brought us into the Maysville and Lexington turnpike road which, however, is only in part finished. There are 4 miles finished from Maysville & a gate erected. This part we did not travel over. It is graded to 2 or 21/2 degrees. Then, at first, covered over 20 feet wide, with six inches of fine powdered stone, & when that has settled, 3 inches more of still finer stone is to be put on. We saw vast quantities of stone broke up ready to be put on, lying in heaps some 2 or 3 or 4 feet high, & three or 4 rods long and of the same breadth of the road nearly the whole line of the road is covered with such heaps. The stone is very plenty & easy come at, for in grading the road the stone is dug out and thrown on the sides, & in every place the stone is found lying in nearly horizontal strata from 3 or 4 feet downwards. The stone is generally taken out in thin flaks. & is pretty easy broke. I believe it is gray limestone—After riding a few miles came into Nicholas Cy?, crofsed Licking river at the Blue Licks. This part of the country is very hilly, rocky & poor. The ground is nearly covered with flat stone—Pafsed Millersburg in edge of Bourbon, 13 miles from Licking river. This is a beautiful country again—rich land & rolling a little. The town is about the size of Lexington, Va. Has 4 churches, 1 of the New lights—Came on to a Mr. Hites 31/2 miles further for the night, a large fine looking brick house on the right hand, came today 281/2 miles.
13th Started early, heavy frost & very cooll. Pafsed through Paris—a pretty considerable place, country seat of Bourbon, which is a very rich county of land. This place does pretty much business in selling goods, I would judge. I think there are 10 or 12 stores or more & 2 or 3 churches. The streets are very narrow and badly paved. The turnpike pafses through this. It is distant from Maysville 45 miles. The country round about is very rich & beautiful, about as much so as any I ever saw. Came to Mr. Thurstons, 7 miles from Paris, for breakfast, a large fine brick house, & fine country. From this to Lexington 12 miles, is a very level, handsome & rich country. The timber is scarce, & all the woodland is culled out & fenced in, & fine grass growing in there, which is used for pasture, while nearly all the cleared land is cultivated in corn & hemp & a little wheat. Stoped in Lexington only long enough to get my horse shod. Traveled 1 mile on the turnpike on entering the town, which we pafsed, on Main Street, running nearly North (or east) & South. The main street, which has pretty much the appearance of a city, runs in the opposite direction after pafsing the town. We took a south direction & pafsed in sight of the celebrated Henry Clay farm, which lay on the left of the road. His farm extends from another road & is pretty large & a fine looking house. The country about here is the prettiest I ever saw, but is not quite as rich as in Bourbon. Came to Mrs Poages 4 miles from town, where we staid intil Monday morning.
14th Sunday, Went to Walnut Hill Church, (4 miles south) to hear Mr Stuart preach. He was raised in N. Providence congregation. He is a presbyterian & a fine old man. A young Mr. Todd, just licensed, preached.
15th We staid from Saturday evening till the morning at Mrs Poages, & I was very much pleased with the family. They are remarkably friendly, sociable & plain people. Her husband was a brother of Wm Poage of Augusta. There is only one daughter (Nancy) & one son (Leio?) at home. Started after breakfast, went across the country a west course about 4 miles untill we came into the main road to Nicholasville, which we pafsed, distant from Lexington 12 miles. This is the county seat of Lefsrnine Cy? And is a pretty little place & has one or 2 churches — From there to Kentucky river is 10 miles. The country about which is broken and poor. There are tremendious cliffs along the Kentucky river, 2 or 300 feet high in places, I suppose. The road down and up from the river has been made at a great expense by carving away a corner of a cliff of rock.
17th Crofsed the river in a ferry. The river is but small, has no bottom and is about 150 or 200 feet below the level of the adjoining country. About 1 mile from the river is Shakertown, which belongs to a sect called Shaking Quakers. One of their doctrines is to have all property in common. There are some fine buildings there both of stone and brick. From this to Harrodsburg is 7 miles—the country rather rough and poor. This is a right flourishing town, seat of Instiment of Meranby ?. Has 2 or 3 fine churches, and also a celebrated watering place called the Harrodsburg Springs. There were, I am told, 300 visitors there last season. Came for the night to Mr. Davis', 21/2 miles farther. 341/2 miles today.
15th ? Were well entertained last night by a plain old dutchman. White frost & cold. Came to Perryville, 8 miles. Thence to a Mr. Mullins for breakfast 5 miles. This part of the country is hilly and poor, the poorest part of Kentucky that I have yet seen. The soil is of a yellowish cast & the rocks near the top of the ground. The weather is fine for traveling & has the appearance of Indian Summer. The roads are firm & good. After breakfast came to Lebanon 14 miles. This part of the country is a little better & somewhat more level. Lebanon is a right businefs little place, tolerably handsome, & has several stores & 3 churches, one Roman Catholic, one Presbyterian & one Methodist. From this to New Market is 7 miles. The country about this is very hilly & rather mountainous & poor. There is a low ridge of mountains on each side of the town (which is nothing more than 3 or 4 houses) running nearly east & west. Came for the night to Mr. Robertson's, half a mile from the town. A rather ordinary house. Came today 34 miles—
16th ? This morning early crofsed Mulders hill into Green County. This is a high hill. The road up & down is isoplaid? With split timber & is the steepest I ever saw, & bad. There is a great deal of hauling done over it. From Lexington to Nashville. Came to Thurmans to breakfast 11/3 miles. The country hilly & poor. However there is a good deal of tobacco raised. From this to Green river is 9? Miles. This is pretty stream, & navigable in high tide. (To Summersville is 3 miles from Green river). To Little Barnm ? is 6 miles. Here we crofsed into Hartby ?, & came by a small town. (1f 2 or 3 houses deserves the name) Collier Mussage? — came for the night to Mr. Custer, 6 miles farther, making 34 miles today. After crofsing Little Barrier river, we came into what is called the Barrens—which perhaps 20 years ago had scarcely any timber, & now is grown up with small groth of timber & brush, & covered with a great many ponds of water & sinks. The land is poor, though tobacco is raised in considerable quantities.
17th Started by light, the morning cloudy, & warm, & like for rain. Came to a Mr. Dickeys 15 miles for breakfast (Barrenby?). The country like what we pafsed yesterday. Crofsed no running water. Came for the night to Mitchels Massen? County 20 miles. The country the same as before only a little richer & better farms. Traveled 35 miles today & have crofsed no running water yet—
18th Had a heavy rain yesterday, or coming on us 3 or 4 miles., & more through the night, which has made the roads muddy, hitherto good since we left Lexington. After a ride of 6 miles crosfed Big Barren river over a toll bridge 3/4's of a mile from Bowling Green—This is a scattered place, rocky & poor. But I understand considerable businefs is done here, being the head of steam navigation, in high tides. This river empties into Green river. B. Green is the county seat of Warrenby? — Came to Corringtons? to breakfast 71/2 miles. Thence to Shakertown 61/2 miles. This is a very handsome situation, & some of the finest brick buildings in the States— The houses are few & the sect diminishing— After a ride of 14 miles came to Bifsleville for the night. This is a considerable town & a few years ago was the 3rd in size in the state. Population now about 1300—It is the county seat of Logan Cy. Rode to day 34 miles.
19 After a very cold ride of 15 miles thro a rather bitter country, came to Elkton. This is the county seat of Todd County, a small town and rather on the decline. After breakfast rode about 20 miles came to Cousin John Hopkins of Christian County.
20th Sunday, went to Sunday School and then to Uncle Scotts also seen uncle & aunt Harrison. The next day went to uncle Hopkins, & the next 22nd went to uncle Ushers, found all my friends in their usual health—after the lapse of a week or ten days went with Cousin Ben Harrison to Cous Harry Harrifons on Pond river about 22 miles from Hopkinsville. This is a very rough, hilly & poor country. Staid there 6 days, hunting deer most of the time. A few days after went to Mr. Hoppers another cousin about 16 miles further up the river in Todd Cy. They are both tanners and doing a good business. Then fell a snow about 8 inches deep on the night of 6th Dec which has lain on the ground until the 24th without thawing in the least during this time & for a few days before the weather was extremely cold. The thermometer stood as low as 11 deg below zero in a covered porch. The weather was as severe as any I ever experienced (I think) & in places almost a foot thick. I had but a poor opportunity of seeing the country here (Christian Cy). This county is bounded on the south by the Tenesee line.& is principally was are called Barrens. Hopkinsville is the seat of Instuat? & the only town in this Cy. It is a right flourishing town of about 13 or 1400 inhabitants. The town is situated in rather a low piece of ground between two branches of Little river, one close to the town on the west, the other about one mile east, both streams are quite small. There is a low ride of bushy hills between the east fork and town. The streets crofs each other at right angles. The houses are generally of brick and very much scattered. Some of them look old & there are none of them elegant, but comfortable. There is a Presbyterian, a Baptist & a Methodist church & a Cumberland Episcopalian & Campbalette? congregation, I think. There is a right flouring academy for girls and boys and another flourishing school for girls. I attended the last day of 3 examinations and I was very much pleased with their performance. They acquitted themselves well. I will perhaps give a fuller description of the country & _ ? again.
Dec. 28th Left uncle Scotts 6 miles from Hopkinsville for N Carolinia. The roads in places icy & I had the weather something milder than last week. However it commenced snowing in the evening & very disagreeable riding—Rode 10 miles to Fountan? Todd Cy, a beautiful and level country & land around this the best I have seen in the Barrens. Thence to Port Royal on Red river (Tenesee) 14 miles. This part of the country is more broken & open & interspersed with sinks. Here we leave the Barrens. Came on 4 miles from there to Mr. Chests Robertromly ?
28th 29th Snowed during the night, which made it very bad traveling. Fell in with Mr. Hopson & Dukey, going to Nashville, whosecompany was acceptable. To Turnersville is 3 miles & 9 miles farther to Sycamore creek. & 7 miles from there to a large splendid brick tavern in a mountainous country called Paradise. Thence to Nashville down Whites creek 11 miles. Came to the Cumberland 2 miles below the town, over which I crofsed on a splendid covered bridge. The country has been rather hilly today, however some good land on White creek. Near Nashville the country is hilly & very rocky. The city is on a high hill on rather a bluff on the southeast side of the river & is a right handsome place. There is a public square of about 4 acres, I suppose, on which is a large & elegant brick State house, covered with a large dome, in which is the City Clock. There is also a large market house with 2 large offices at each end. The square is graveled and unenclosed. Road today 32 miles. Nashville is near the head of Steam navigation on the Cinc? There were 3 or 4 large boats now frozen in the river. It contains about 6,000 inhabitants.
30th Very cold this morning. The ground is frozen very hard & rough, which was very sloppy yesterday evening. Had a very disagreeable ride. Crofsed Stone? river guide? from N?. A handsome river & 3 miles from that pafs by the Hermitage. The seat of the celebrated Gen Jackson. It is a beautiful level? country & very rich. The mansion is a large 2 story brick edifice about 200 yards from the road on the left (or on the south east side of the river & about 2 miles off). There are a great many out houses, shacks & everything in good repair- Came to Lebanon. (the county town of Wilson by)? through a pretty level country. The timber in places is all & shelving rocks near the top of the ground, & Lebanon is a tolerable little place. Put up at the L. inn after a ride of 30 miles—
31st Some snow last night & melting a little now, pretty slushy & pretty level country for 12 or 13 miles & a great deal of cedar, some of the trees 2 feet or more in diameter. All the country from N. is limestone, a good many rocks near or on top of the ground & very finely scattered, with running streams every mile or so— The land is generally good, produces, I suppose, from 5 to 10 bls of corn per acre, also good for cotton, & looks as if wheat would grow pretty well, but I see very little growing. Most of the corn & cotton is in the fields yet, about 10 or 12 miles from Liberty, the country is broken, & rather poor, finely timbered with oak & poplar—18 miles from Lebanon is the town of Alexandria, almost in the woods, & 7 miles from there is Liberty on Smiths fork of the Coney fork river. Came on 2 miles farther to Capt Grays after riding today (they say 21 miles). Thus ends another year, it is past & gone never to return, & it is now as the years which were before the flood. What a theme for solemn meditation. A year memorable in annals of religious, as also of political history of the world. & may it be a year long to be remembered by me, as I hope it is by multitudes, & may I be spared to commence, to spend, & to end the next more to the service & glory of God & our Lord Jesus Christ, Amen.
1832.
Jan 1st , Sunday— This is the first day of another year. How short a time, it seems, to have been since the 1st day of last year. But time & tide waits for no man, & it has brought me to see the commencement of a new year, (in good health etc.) on Smith Fork. Smith County Tenesee. 2 miles east of the town of Libery and at the house of Capt. Grays, a fine old man with neither wife or daughter. 4 miles from there I came up a hill called Snows mountain, then through a pretty level barren country about 8 or 10 miles, then down a mountainous country about 3 or 4 miles to Coney Fork river. This I ferried, came up a kind of mountain about a mile & then thru a hilly & poor country to Sparta, 16 miles. Saw but 3 settlements today of good land, the 1st at Grays, the 2nd & the 3rd near to Sparta _______The snow about 4 or 5 inches deep. Rode today about 33 miles.
The 2nd Loged last night at Mr. Hoffmans, Sparta, a very cold morning. Rode 3 miles & then took the main Cumberland mountains. It is pretty steep for 2 miles & very rocky near the top. Here the snow began to be deeper. On top of the mountain & for miles, it was about a foot deep, 2 days ago it was 15 inches. There is but a single wagon track beaten in the snow & that is in very good order now for traveling. From Sparta to Easttens? Is 12 miles & 12 more to the tollgate. This is the top of the mountain, & 11 more to Kimmers, where I put up at after riding an hour in the night. The day moderated & thawed a little. The road today has been good, through a high, hilly, barren country, a good deal of barren grafs & fine stock country, rode today 35 miles—
3rd Last night staid at an old dutchmans (Kinners?), who appears to live more like the people of Rockbridge than any place I have seen. He has a good house, raises fine colts & cattle, though the land is very poor. The roads over the mountains are pretty good. From this to the Crab Orchard is 31/2 miles. This is a large open level tract of poor land, & a fine tavern? Stand, 2 miles from this is the famous Spencers Hill, down the next side of which is so steep that it used to be necessary to drag trees under the wagon to keep it from running too fast. The road now is altered & is pretty good for 10 miles from there & we have the mountains & 13 miles more through a poor, hilly, knobby country to Clinch river. Immediately above its junction with the Tenesee is Kingston, the poorest excuse for a town I have seen. It is built just along a hollow. I rode 6 miles farther thro a poor mountainous country to Mr. Eskridges, one of the best houses on the road. I rode today 341/2 miles. The country along the top of those mountains is the finest range for stock that I have ever seen. There are prairies of fine grafs, & timothy grows very well in most places &—
4th A continuation of rough country for 7 or 8 miles. To Merediths is 13 miles—From this to Campbells Station is 5 miles, thence to Knoxville is 15. This part of the country is generally good, it is upland between the Tenesee & Clinch rivers, within 2 miles of Knoxville I first saw the Tenesee, it is a fine looking stream & looks to be vastly more suitable for Steam navigation than some rivers in Kentucky, which are navigable. There is 1 boat on the river now (the Knoxville) which plies to the head of the Miscles Shoals, a distance by water of 700 miles. There is another building at Dittos landing below. I make not much doubt that in a few years the river will be so opened out that the navigation by steam will be safe & easy to the Shoals, and perhaps thro them. Put up at the Knoxville Hotel (by accident it seems), intending to pursue my journey in the morning. However the arrival of the Eastern Stage landed at the same hotel, by accident one of my associates from Brownsburg. It was the first person I had seen in Tenesee whom I knew. In fact, the only I have seen since I left home—I was taken so much by surprise & so truly rejoiced to see him that I scarcely believed my own eyes. It really was him & he recognized me in the crowd the moment I sat down. I had not heard from home for 2 months & was truly glad to hear that all was well etc. Here I first heard that sister Maria had become the mother of a fine son & that she & it were doing well & also that the family was well. By the cost of a dollar by Mr. Ben Lyle, my associate, he, another gentleman going in the stage with him, I myself agreed to stay a day here & take a view of the place & to talk about old times & the news of my native land etc— This day rode 33.
5th Took a walk to the river & viewed the Steam boat, now here, also the cotton gin & spinning factory, then went up to the college, through it & to the top of the steeple to take a survey of the city & suburbs. It is a square brick edifice with a very high steeple, situated to the west of town about 1/4 of a mile, on a very high round hill. There are no trees & no enclosures around it, & it has a naked appearance—The town itself is not large, the buildings not very elegant, & the streets I can't tell how the[y] run. The principle road thro it is from east to west & upon the whole is about the hollyest? place for a town I ever saw. It is a place of considerable business, however, good deal of produce sent down the river heretofor by flatboats, & great many goods sold & I have as yet seen very little good land.
6th Had the company of 3 gentlemen going to N.C. most of the day. The weather has moderated, the snow & ice going off the roads fast & as the appearance of rain & great rise in the water. The streets of Knoxville are so steep & in a solid state of ice that it was dangerous to ride on them. I left the main road to the east, about 4 miles from K. & turned to the left, towards Jonesboro. Forded the Holston about 3 miles farther. It was the clearest & best ford I ever saw. The river was 300 yards across, I judge, & not much more than knee deep. Came by a small town N. Market 24 miles from K. Along this valley, between the French Broad & Holston, is the best land & farms that I have seen in E. Tenesee, 4 miles farther I pafsed the Mossy Creek Iron Works, nothing doing in that line tho now, & 6 miles farther to Mr. Watkins where I staid all night. It has rained occasionally thro the day. This is in Jefferson Cy—Rode today 35 miles—This day a year ago I was enjoying myself better than I am here alone. Sister Maria was married on that day.
The 7th It has rained all night. The snow has not all gone yet, bad roads, & entertainment not much better, rain considerable through the day, the waters raising very fast. The roads are a solid cake of ice, & in places 2, 3, 4 inches thick. The fog was so thick that I could not see much more than 100 yards & I could not see the country, tho I think the country was very poor, scarcely saw a good horse & farm— 14 miles I crofsed the road by J.G.? by Bean Station to Kentucky, 1 mile to Russelville, a poor village. 8 miles farther I left the main to Greenville, & turned to the left, a neure ? road. However I had not gone more than 3 miles before I came to Gap Creek, a small mountain branch which was fast rising. I put up at the first house on the bank? a very poor house. They were chopping sausage meat in the house, & the floor was very dirty. They cooked at the same fire. Had chicken, covered with pork, & upon the whole a tolerable supper. For breakfast the chicken & spare ribs were all stirred together, & applesauce. Coffee colored water, & black biscuits.
8th Sunday After paying a stiff bill & getting some directions, I took round, to crofs the creek higher up which I did. It ceased raining last night at 9 oclock, but began to rain very hard about 11 oclock today. When I came to Lick creek at Poages bridge, it was like a sea. All the bottoms were coffered [sic]. There were two men paddling a canoe along the lane from the house to the bridge say 75 or 100 yds. Here I got a pilot who got on horseback & went ahead. I followed after crofsing the bridge. I rode thro the water about 300 yds, from 3 to 4 feet deep. I got over safe, without getting wet. Came on to Rolling fork, which was also past ? riding. There was no chance of crofsing, & I put up at Mr. Rofs' on the bank. He says it will not be crofsed without swimming tomorrow. He pretends to keep entertainment but is the most unaccommodating man I have met with, had to feed and curry both last night & today—rode in both days 35 miles.
9 — The water had fallen so that I could get to the frame of an old bridge over which I carried my saddle etc & swam my horse over. The creek was only about 30 yards wide. From this to Babb's mill is 8 miles thro a very hilly, rocky, & poor country. From this to Jonesboro is 20 miles. The country a little better. The land about Leesburg, which is 5 miles from Jonesboro, is pretty good, & tolerable level. About J.B. it is very hilly. The town is in a hollow, with a very steep hill at each end of the street. It is a pretty smart place of bufsiness. The county town of Washington—G ? is the next west. Came 5 miles further to Mr. Burts, a Rockbridger, & a very clever man, keeps a good house. Rode today 33 miles—Fine warm day & very muddy roads—
10. Smart white frost, & ground frozen, had a few miles of tolerable land, & roads. But then began to get into the mountains. The roads in many places, right along the water courses, & the waters very flumie? After riding about 16 miles of very bad mountains, I crofsed Doe river then to find spring in 7 miles. Two or three miles below this I came to Watauga river, along the bank of which there is a bridge built, partly in water now, for to pafs round the point of a bluff, also a toll gate for wagons. I crofsed the river in a flat, then 61/2 miles farther a bad road to Roans creek, to Mr. Hamptons, where I staid all night. Here I had the wicked, swearing company of some horse drovers. I have been winding about [this] day thro the mountains, turning to every point of the compass. Rode today 30 miles—Roads bad with some ice and snow in places.
11th The weather has changed very much. Yesterday was tolerable pleasant, but it turned colder, & the snow fell 2 or 3 inches deep last night, & pretty cold, & went _____ this morning. There are some pretty good bottoms in places among these mountains, especially on Roans creek. Saw good land for 61/2 miles, at Bakers. This is at the foot of the Stone mountain. From this to the top is 3 miles. This is about the steepest, highest mountain that I have ever been on. When I came up I could see nothing but mountains on all sides, some of which looked very bleak thin?. being covered with snow. Here I am ___ got into the state of NC, Ashe? county. From this to New River is 18 miles. A mountainous & the worst road I ever traveled. Towards evening it blew up a very cold wind from the north & began to freeze very hard which made the roads so rough that I could scarcely get along. This has been the most disagreeable ride of any day yet. I did not get to Mr Houstons? untill after dark. Having rode only 29 m This night a year ago I was at Col Dunes? of Augusta Va, the last night of Maria's infare?. I have been contrasting the time there spent with what it has been with me for a few days back. I have been among the mountains traveling by myself—
13th Left this to crofs over the last range of mountains, the Blue ridge, 8 miles from this at the deep Gap. The ground was pretty covered with snow untill I came to the ridge, but east of that I saw no snow, the first time that I have seen the ground clear of it for 6 or 7 weeks. Crofsed over the Laurel Spur of the B. Ridge & then came down to Lewis fork of the Yadkin to the ford of the river, about 17 miles from the ridge. This part of the road is pretty hilly except just on the creek for a few miles. Then crofsed the Yadkin & down the river 8 miles to Wilkesboro, the place that I have been in search of for some time past, I now have found it one hour after dark, after a journey of 465 miles. I found all my friends here well. The place looks like it did 4 years ago when I was here. This is the first place that I have seen that I have known since I left the Hot springs Va on the 25th of October 1830.
13 Pafsed the day at uncles & at Cousin Caroline Patterson (Finley being absent at Raleigh at present). I felt very tired, & have caught a cold within the last two or three days.
14th This is the commencement of a two days meeting at the place. A Cumberland minister from Tenisee (Mr. Ashton, who has preached here three or four times before on last week) is to hold a meeting. He is very much liked with all denominations. There were a great many people out today, & had fine preaching.
15th Sunday. A very fine day, & more people at meeting than ever has seen at this place before. He preached an excellent sermon from the Last Judgement, also preached both nights, there was a good deal of feeling etc.

Inside back cover:
Dec. 21st Gave to Robertson Irvine 2 three dollar notes on the Commercial Bank of Cincinnati to return them to Mr. Lindsay Poage of Greenup County Ky of whom I got of whom I got them. He gave me $1.00 the other 5.00 he is to leave at Mother's. Signed AC Finley

Next page:
James Scott
Clinton
Hinob Cy Mifssippi

George A. Finley
? Tan Yard
? Mifsouri

1831
Money expended going to Kentucky (2nd page)
Paid at Forge - 0. 121/2
At ? for spirits of turpentine " 121/2
Doyls First night " .75
A. Stuarts for breakfast " .371/2
At Pattens - Bath Cty for horse no supper - " .50
Toll on Turnpike " 0.61/4?
At Callahans Alleghany county - for breakfast" .371/2
Toll at Dicksons " .12
Toll at or near White Sulphur Springs " 121/2
At Mr. McLaughlins Greenbriar River " .75
At Rifes 101/2 miles from Lewisburg Breakfast & toll .50
At Deans Fayette County all night .75
AtCol. Oldersons for breakfast & toll 0.50
Toll at Gauley Bridge .183/4
Supper etc. at Huddlesons .621/2
On the Kenhaway? River Fayette Cty
For breakfast at Stockston on Kenhanay .371/2
To boy at Charleston .61/2
Sunday in Charleston 1.25
To boy at Calhouns .121/2
Crossing the ferry on Kenhanay .121/2
At Mouth of Cole? For breakfast .371/2
Ferry at Bit Sandy .121/2
At M? river all night .561/4
At Barboursville for breakfast .371/2
To boy at Gen. John Poagues .183/4
Passage in Steam Boat
From Amanda Furnace to Cincinati 145 miles 3.75
To boy 61/4
To boy for carrying baggage 61/4
In Cincinnati for lip salve etc .121/2
At Museum .25
At collection at 2nd Presbyterian Church for the Indians .25
Tavern bill in Cincinnati 1.00
Passage at the Guyandotte to Maysville Tn 2.50
To barber in Maysville .183/4
Tavern bill debt 1.00
Pafsage in the Stage to Mays Lick & lodging 1.00
To boy at Gen. Rob Pogues .61/4
To Irvine to pay for my horse's expenses from G? .621/2
at Hitts Bourbon Ky .75
To an old soldier begging his way to Virginia 121/2
at Thurstons - breakfast .371/2
at Lexington- horseshoe .50
at Wm Poages to boy - .121/2
a Kentucky ferry - .121/2
at Wm Davis Mercer County .621/2
at Mr. Mullins - .371/2
at Robisons Washington Cy all night .50
at Thurmans Green Cy for breakfast .371/2
at Carte's ? Hart county night 621/2
at Dickeys breakfast. Basically? 371/2
at Mitchels night Warren Cty 621/2
Warren Ct
To Boy 61/2
Esoping? Bridge at Barren River 1
Breakfast at Covington 371/2
at Russellville all night 871/2
at Elkton breakfast 50
Wm?Hopkinsville for silk braid 50
for letters one for sell 50
Home for V.? H. Inriser? 50
for Sheane of silk & to boy 121/2
to boy at Hawks for doctoring horse 121/2
for girt? & padding saddle 501/4
for shoeing horse 1.00
for 5 drefs h hs for my cousins 2.75
at Mrs Whist? Temsers?
34 miles from Hopkins 871/2
toll at bridge Cumberland 121/2
2nd night at Nashville 1.50
to boy ? & whip lash ? 121/2
at Lebanon Tn Willson Cy 1.001/4
at Cap? Grays Smith Cy
2 miles from Liberty 75
?
at Sparta 1.00
toll on Cumberland Mount 12?
at Kimmers all night 871.2?
toll at foot of the mountains 121/2
ferry at Clinch 121/2
at Eckridges 871/2
to boy 61/4
Knoxville shoeing? sharing?shaving? 10
ditto 2 nights 2.311/4
Mrs Watkins 75
at Mrs _____ Gafs Creek water round? 671/2
at Lick creek for piloting acrofs 121/2
at Mr. Rofs - Sunday 75
to Boy for helping acrofs the creek 121/2
at Mr. Busts? 75
ferry at Watauga 121/2
at Hamptons 62
at Hortons 75
To a preacher pd by Dr. Bouchell at Wilkesboro - 25…Ironing coat 75
To Captain for taking cre of my horse 471/2
$ 47..691/4
1 pr leggins in Hopkinsville 6.00

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Shenandoah Valley Churchman--history

Builder of Chapel Hill

children on a horse

children on the steps

Taking aim

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